A to Z Work Travelogue : Yerevan, Yah!

He stood at the airport holding his wife’s favorite jacket. We had agreed that late February would be a good time to visit—spring just setting in, the chill fading. But the day before I landed, a snow alert was issued and temperatures plunged. From the airport, we drove straight to the market for fur-lined boots.

To set the stage, let me rewind a few years. One afternoon, I received a call from my colleague who headed international business. "Hey, Madhu, come over. I want you to meet a very interesting person. Let’s have lunch together."

That’s how I first met M—magnetic in presence, with a disarming energy. He had tracked down our company through old Soviet-era connections—back when lead-acid battery manufacturers in the USSR signed large annual contracts. M was especially keen on our brand. On his first visit, he brought an interpreter, but there was a certain dissonance. The meeting still went well, and it was the start of a long association. On subsequent trips, M came alone, armed only with a dictionary. The interpreter, he confessed, could not convey the spirit of his remarks— the empathy he felt was essential to negotiation.

Years later, once his business with us was firmly established, he insisted I visit Armenia to see what he had built for our brand. I spent just under a week there. Days were devoted to visiting stores; evenings were spent with his family. His mother sat at the head of the table, a gentle smile on her face, her keen eyes making sure my plate was never empty. M’s sister—an English teacher, interpreter, and gifted storyteller—spoke with pride about Armenian history, culture and heritage.

One evening, she told me the story of the salt cellar—an essential in every Armenian home. Handmade in the shape of a pregnant woman, it symbolized both life and fortune. Landlocked and often war-ravaged, Armenia depended on imported salt, which was precious and entrusted to the matriarch. She held it symbolically “in her womb” and dispensed it sparingly, preserving not just the family’s food but its fortune. Linked to Anahit, the Armenian goddess of fertility, these cellars are still proudly displayed as cultural heirlooms.

I also learned of Armenia’s deep historical ties with India, particularly Kolkata and Chennai. At the Etchmiadzin Church, I was surprised to hear of the 18th-century Armenian Church in Chennai—and felt a tad shy as the priest obviously expected to learn more from me.

Driving through Yerevan was like leafing through a living history book. Every heritage building had a story to tell. In open-air markets, stalls brimmed with hand-crafted pottery, wood carvings, jewelry, and woven textiles in a riot of colors. And no matter the hour, every home welcomed guests with bread, fresh salads, sweets, and dried fruits.

Some images stay forever in the mind; others are lost when photographs fade or disappear. M visited our plants many more times, eventually leaving his dictionary behind entirely. I moved to another industry, but our friendship endured—woven into the fabric of shared meals, exchanged stories, and the crisp spring air of Yerevan.

Bavaria Beyond Bratwurst

Food is more than sustenance — it is an expression of culture, heritage, and
creativity. Experience it firsthand or stay with beliefs, “German food is all about
frankfurters and bratwurst”, like we did before our Munich trip.

Bavaria's varied landscape, from mountainous areas to fertile plains and a lake that's large
enough to be called the Bavarian Sea, has influenced what crops and livestock are
raised, leading to regional specialties. Additionally, Bavaria's history as a crossroads
for trade and migration has brought in diverse culinary traditions. 

Our exploration understandably began with sausages. We met the famous Weißwurst – in Marienplatz, which claims right of origin on these delicate white sausages, simmered in hot water to leave a mild, tender and juicy flavor. The ‘little finger-length' sausages of Nurnberg still grilled over beechwood, date back to early 14th century and tell its own story of economic hardship when the locals settled for smaller portions of their favorite food and made it a city tradition.

Delicate White Sausages

Little-finger length Sausages

The Spätzle, an egg pasta topped with crispy brown onions and cheese, is a
deceptively simple but tricky dish to get right. The soft dough is dropped directly into
boiling water to make tiny dough balls affectionately called Spatzles or little
sparrows. Ergo, if the dough sticks or gets lumpy the cook is chided for making
“ravens”.

Our Spatzles that had turned "ravens"

It is amazing how you find in distant lands familiar flavors of home. The
Leberknödel or liver-dumpling soup was like a cross between a Kashmiri Gustaba -
that single large dumpling, and a Rishta, for its brown gravy. The pounded meats in
all three dishes break down in their delicate soups to make a nourishing mouthful.

Gustaba or Leberknodle Souppe?

The knotty pretzels and beers would make for another piece all together. Before
signing off, however, one has to mention the Obatzda, a soft, spiced cheese-spread
topped with chives and onions - so good with the salted pretzels and washed down
with beer.

Pretzels with Obatzda

A to Z Work Travelogue : Significant Singapore

 Last week, I returned to Singapore after 22 years. In those days, I was handling the International Business for Exide batteries and my colleagues at the Singapore office played a significant role in sourcing business in South East Asia. Typically, one covered the Malaysia and Singapore markets in these visits.

Returning after such a long gap and with only one evening to spare, I knew I had to make it to the Marina Bay. Like any other major global city, Singapore keeps rejuvenating and reinventing to stay relevant and the Marina Bay was the spot for feeling the pulse. The redevelopment has included restoring historical landmarks, introducing new landmark buildings and the development of the Marina Bay.  Today, a stock-shot of Singapore is the Marina Sands Skypark and Sands Theatre, a shift from the endearing Merlion. Then, I had an early glimpse of this transformation. The grand old building of The Fullerton (constructed in 1928) turned into a luxurious five-star hotel after housing for many years various government departments. The building's original facade has been retained and refurbished with its interior remodeled. From Marina Bay and all the way up the Singapore River Banks, the renewed Singapore was evident. In buildings and areas like One Fullerton, once the Master Attendant's Pier (and, our conference venue) , the old Waterboat office, Clifford Pier and old favorites like Boat Quay and Clarke Quay. What's more, the city mascot the Merlion had also moved position in these intervening years.

The most personal moment was when my ex-colleague recommended that we take the Marina boat ride. He was responsible for moving the authorities to take a shift from the polluting, noisy, diesel engines to silent battery power, sometime around 2007. As I took videos, he smilingly reminded me that he had made it a noise free possibility!

On the flight back, I couldn't help but reflect on that "me" in Singapore in the earlier days and now. The visits used to be a fascinating whirlwind of bay-side dinners and shopping after a long day's work. There was an awe about the stores, the brands, the social gaiety and mouth watering seafood. While my colleague still suggested that I should check out the Marina Arcade Ralph Lauren and Apple experience centers for the unique customer experience, I demurred. The national-international divide has blurred over the years. The lights, the malls and the food are no longer as fascinating.

This visit, post the river ride, one sat and relaxed with a drink. Of course, there was a lot of catching up we had to do on the personal front. As we talked, I observed life go by in this captivating city. One still  marvels at the vibrant riverfront, the attention to preserving heritage even as the city is continuously modernizing, the concentration of tourists, work-travelers and locals in open-air restaurants along the riverfront exuding collective energy. 

I didn't have the time to check out the green-drive at Changi airport or Gardens by the Bay and also the new generation green-terraced apartments. What remains unchanged and uniquely defines the success of the city is what I term "speed and efficiency at work". The immigration, the hotel, currency exchange, the meetings were the few touchpoints I could test in this 24-hour trip and I felt again that awe of yesteryears.