Gharwali Garhwali

 (Homestyle Garhwali Food in Mussoorie)

When you are wandering through Mussoorie, it is easy to assume that the town runs on two things alone: endless cups of chai (in kulhad) and steaming plates of pahadi Maggi. Or perhaps you might conclude that “local food” simply means the familiar North Indian spread of parathas, dal, aloo gobi, and chicken curry. And if you ask your driver for a recommendation, chances are he will enthusiastically point you toward some “badhiya Italian khana” — usually code for creamy red- or white-sauce pasta and paneer / chicken pizzas.

But if you are determined (and just a little food-obsessed), Mussoorie rewards you with something far more memorable: honest, hearty Garhwali home cooking.

We began our search somewhat misguidedly, looking online for non-vegetarian Garhwali dishes. The internet happily listed all sorts of tempting recipes flavoured with local herbs and spices, but was remarkably unhelpful when it came to telling us where to actually eat them.

That is how we stumbled upon Hills-E-Ishq, a charming little restaurant run by Ashu. Perched on a hillside, with barely half a dozen tables and a queue that seems to move at mountain pace, it serves a vegetarian thali that is worth every minute of waiting.

Hemp seed chutney

Ashu suggested we start with crispy stinging nettle fritters paired with bhang-seed chutney and a chilled glass of rhododendron lassi. The drink’s deep pink hue brought back memories of Rooh Afza — not all of them pleasant, thanks to my Delhi school days — but this drink was unique and wonderfully refreshing.

Rhododendron Lassi

Finger Nettle Fritters

Lunch began with phanu, a robust and spicy lentil soup that wakes up the palate. Then came the stars of the meal: earthy mandwe (finger millet) rotis, kandali (stinging nettle) saag, alu thichwani, mixed dal, and red rice, with generous dollops of that addictive bhang-seed chutney.

And for dessert, jhangore ki kheer — a creamy pudding made from barnyard millet — offered just the right touch of sweetness to end the meal on a comforting note.

The Garhwali Thali

As unapologetic non-vegetarians, we were surprised by how thoroughly we enjoyed this simple yet deeply flavorful spread.

While waiting for our table, we struck up a conversation with the restaurant’s usher, whose job seemed equal parts host and culinary evangelist. He proudly told us that Hills-E-Ishq was among the first restaurants in the region to champion local cuisine. He also tipped us off about another place to try: The Tavern, just off Mall Road, where the menu features exactly three Garhwali dishes — a vegetarian thali, Pahadi kukkad (chicken curry), and the much-loved Bhunni (or Bhunyu Bukhtya), a rich, slow-cooked mutton preparation made in a traditional iron wok.

Naturally, we rushed there that very evening.

The chicken curry had sold out, but they were happy to pack us a portion of the Bhunni, albeit with a few cautionary notes. Some diners, we were told, find the mutton a little chewy and are put off by the fact that it is cooked with the skin on. Undeterred, we carried home our parcel, along with cracker-like heart-shaped millet rotis and a helping of spicy mint chutney.

Finger Millet Crackers

Red Rice & Bhunni

By the end of the day, tired but immensely satisfied, we found ourselves licking our fingers and wondering why Garhwali food remains one of the Himalayas’ best-kept secrets. Simple, nourishing, and packed with character, it tastes exactly like what it is meant to be — homestyle food cooked with love, for family, and for anyone lucky enough to find it.

Sometimes the best souvenirs from the mountains are not shawls or photographs, but the lingering taste of a meal that feels like home.